Salt caravans in the Sahara, resistance or death

It’s still possible to find salt for sale in the markets of the Sahel and in Saharan cities such as Gao, Timbuktu, Agadez, and Kalait. And on our winter expeditions through northern Chad, it’s not uncommon for us to come across salt caravans. A traditional mode of transportation that refuses to fade away even in the 21st century. Here, we’ll tell you about its history and our experience.

Salt from the Sahara: a source of life

Men and herds in the southern part of the great desert consume salt in large quantities. Without salt, as without water, large living beings cannot live. It is impossible to stay hydrated without mineral salts running through our veins, and it is also impossible to preserve meat and fish in the torrid climate of the Sahara and the Sahel.

Let’s also remember that the term “salario” (wage) dates back to Roman times, when workers were paid with salt.

The salt of the Sahara is not the kind we are used to seeing in our shops. In the Sahara it is compacted and takes the form of large loaves, sometimes in the shape of a cone (kantus), sometimes in the form of round or square blocks.

Its colour is also not as expected. Ochre-coloured salt is mixed with earth and is intended for animals. White or even red salt is usually intended for human consumption.

To our eyes, if no one warns you of this detail, it will go somewhat unnoticed in the markets, but this is the traditional way of preparing it to travel in the camels’ saddlebags without the risk of it spilling along the way.

In Chad we have seen a much more primitive version. There the salt rocks are not shaped at all. They are just randomly broken rocks, but never ground.

The camel drivers of the Sahara say their salt is much better than sea salt because it has all the properties needed to sustain life. According to them, animals that eat little salt suffer from vision loss and general weakness . In reality, it is 90% iodized, whereas sea salt requires further processing.

Where does this salt come from? There are salt flats throughout the Sahara and the Sahel. They are found in brackish depressions that are occasionally flooded. They are remnants of the ancient seabed, fossils of which can also be found throughout the Sahara.

This is the natural gold that has sustained the few people who have lived in the desert since time immemorial.

Among the most famous sources of salt are Taudenni in Mali, Amadror in Algeria, Lake Chad, Faya, and the Mourdi region in Chad, Idjil in Mauritania, and Bilma in Niger.

The salt pans in these places have been well known for many centuries and are still active. For example, it is said that in the Bilma oasis about half of the inhabitants are salt miners. Many choose not to emigrate, either because they cannot afford it or because they want to carry on the tradition. They dedicate themselves to a job that has less and less market, but they resist.

The history of the salt caravans

Ibn Battuta, the famous traveler of the Middle Ages, spoke of the salt caravans. These had already existed long before Arab chroniclers like Battuta wrote about them, but the earliest written—and therefore historical—records of this commercial tradition date back to the 14th century. Thanks to these records, it is believed that their golden age began in the 9th century.

We recommend this article from the website Al Andalus y la Historia, which takes an in-depth look at the history of the caravan routes across the Sahara and the Sahel.

In the Bilma Oasis (in present-day Niger)—one of those places we dream of in Kumakonda—salt workers wade barefoot into shallow pools or wells where salt crystals float. Under a scorching sun, with temperatures easily exceeding 40°C, they dig to fill the molds where the “white gold” is pressed.

When the caravanners arrive, everything has to be ready. It is time to load the camels and prepare to set off across hundreds of kilometres of desert to reach the main markets. Their price, of course, increases with every kilometre travelled. It is not for nothing that the camel drivers risk their lives and those of their animals.

To give you an idea: it’s about 800 km from Timbuktu to Taudenni, and about 600 km from the Ténéré Tree to Bilma. At that tree (the original was knocked down by a truck, and now there’s a metal sculpture that serves as a landmark), there’s the last well before crossing the great plain.

Survival depends on the ability to identify details in the landscape that serve to maintain direction. And on the ability to ration food and water. A huge responsibility that falls on the guides, people well trained to read the desert and, at least in the old days, very well paid.

In the 1950s, the salt caravans were of gigantic proportions. The Bilma caravan is said to have had 28,000 camels carrying 2,350 tonnes of salt and almost 500 tonnes of dates in 1953, and the Taoudenni caravan was made up of 40,000 camels carrying 160,000 bars of salt in 1958.

But in the past, salt caravans did not only transport this indispensable foodstuff. In fact, this was the solution adapted to the desert, and with them also went other goods: grain, dried meat, cloth, tea, sugar, gold, books, and even people who needed to make these journeys with some protection from the bandits on the road. Not to mention slaves.

Let’s pause for a moment to consider books. Scholars and books that contained the world’s knowledge traveled with the caravans. The magnificent libraries of Timbuktu (Mali) and Chinguetti (Mauritania), for example, were established and enriched thanks to the caravans. Medieval treatises on astronomy, medicine, philosophy, and many other subjects made their way there, in addition to, of course, “the word of God,” the Quran.

The huge libraries guarded by the descendants of those traders have survived all kinds of attacks, including those of the jihadists, although of course there have always been irreparable losses. Another example of resistance in the Sahara.

When and why did the decline of the salt caravans begin?

In the years 1972-1974 and 1983-1984 there were severe droughts that prevented the caravans from leaving. They did not have enough fodder to ensure the survival of animals and men, so it would have been suicide to cross the desert in such conditions.

However, as the family economies of the saliners had to be saved and the demand for salt at their destinations had to be met, lorries were used.

It was the beginning of the end. Camel caravans still exist on certain routes, but their numbers and frequency have plummeted. It’s hard to compete with vehicles that can cover the same route in a few days instead of weeks. However, caravans have much more flexible costs—and therefore much greater pricing flexibility—than companies and government agencies.

Nowadays, both salt trucks and traditional caravans face the threat of bandits who steal their mobile phones and money. They also face the sandstorms and engine breakdowns in the case of the former, so it’s not unusual to come across the occasional truck loaded with salt blocks abandoned in the sand.

Salt caravans in Chad

In Chad, salt is mined primarily at two sites:

However, in Chad, salt flats are scattered throughout almost the entire country. From Lake Chad to the Mourdi Depression, the Ounianga Lakes region, and the province of Borkou. In total, there are four or five routes traveled by Gorane, Zahawha, and Arab herders—the dominant population in these regions.

As we mentioned at the beginning, on our winter expeditions we often come across salt caravans along the way. On the December 2023 expedition, we actually came across at least 30 caravans, which was truly incredible.

That’s why we decided to embark on our own trip by joining a salt caravan in December 2024. And it’s been quite an adventure because we’ve traveled with them and just like them. In fact, they haven’t treated us any differently just because we’re tourists, and although that requires a lot of effort on our part, the overall experience has made it all worthwhile.

This activity can only be done in the fall and winter, and, in our experience, only in December and January, when temperatures are much milder and the harmattan storms—which traditionally begin in late January and February—have not yet started. Although with climate change, you never know.

As we mentioned, times have changed, and in the 21st century, most salt caravans transport this product for their own livestock, although they also sell some of it, usually through barter.

How Caravans Are Organized Today

Today, caravan traffic is mostly organised by families. In other words, each family sets up its own caravan and sets off once a year for one of the salt flats. Without this, their livestock could not survive, and the option of going to the markets to buy salt is out of the question. The price is really high.

But we can speak of two major active ethnic groups: the Gorane and the Zaghawa.

We have also come across another modality: some salt caravans are organised cooperatively among the inhabitants of a village. In these cases, the journey is also annual, with the men gathering with their camels for an expedition lasting several weeks.

We mentioned that most salt caravans are organized for their own consumption, but we have recently discovered that some salt caravans still make trips to trade this product in the markets of Kalait and even Abéché, many kilometers away from the salt flats. In such cases, they keep a portion of the salt (between 20% and 50%) and trade the rest for millet and other goods they’ll need to get through the year.

During our 2024 “Caravanas de Sal” expedition, we learned that each sack of salt weighs about 70 kilos and costs about 3,000–4,000 CFA francs (5 or 6 €). By the time it reaches the market, the price has tripled, and each sack can cost around 10,000 CFA francs (approx. 15 €).

The day-to-day life of a salt caravan

The camel drivers usually set off very early. Before dawn, they prepare tea and some food, and then set off to find the camels. The dromedaries usually spend the whole night roaming freely, with their front legs locked, but they may be a kilometre or even two kilometres away from the camp. They have to be fetched and brought back for loading. Without vehicles, everything is done on foot.

When the sacks and other luggage have been secured, the journey begins on foot. They only stop around midday, when it is at its hottest, and only where the camels have grass to eat. This is the priority: the camels.

They stop at specific locations that they have identified and that tend to be the same year after year. Each day they travel about 25 kilometers, and the trip can last more than a month.

At each stop, the camels are unloaded so they can move around freely, and then reloaded to continue the journey. Around 4:30 p.m., the group usually stops for the night, provided there is a good grazing area.

These people’s diet consists mainly of balls of millet mixed with okra and dried tomatoes. This diet is supplemented with dates, tea, and corn porridge for breakfast.

In the evenings the group gathers around the fire and tell stories or even listen to music if they have an instrument.

Caravans in Today’s Numbers

The dromedaries in the salt caravans are different from the “mehari,” traditionally used by tribal leaders for riding and warfare. These animals are accustomed to walking enormous distances in the procession-like formation that we all associate with the image of a caravan. They often wear muzzles to prevent them from eating the mats or palm-leaf ropes carried by the camel in front of them.

Traditional saddlebags are made of leather and decorated with designs and metal rivets, although this tradition is gradually being replaced by plastic and other modern materials. In addition, it is still common to see camel drivers using gri-gris to protect their animals from djinn or genies.

Details that are being lost over time and with the new generations, although there is always a romantic who prefers to safeguard them.

The herders are reserved, tough people who aren’t used to tourists, but they’re also hospitable. Like Abdala, who was leading a caravan we came across in October 2020. He greeted us with a huge smile and filled our hands and pockets with dates, as well as offering us tea. We’ll never forget him.

One wonders how long we will continue to encounter salt caravans in the Sahara, but as long as they exist, as long as they resist, we will drink to them.

If you’re thinking about taking a trip to Chad and exploring this fascinating country with us, be sure to check out our Trips section to see what tours we have available.