Just south of the Sahara is one of the most enigmatic and interesting peoples of Africa: the Wodaabe (Mbororo). The Wodaabe are a subgroup of the Fulani (or Peul), an ethnic group that can be found in practically all West African countries as well as in Chad, Cameroon and the Central African Republic, among others. Wodaabe means “people of the taboos“. They are governed by a strict moral and behavioral code called Pulaake, in which values such as discretion, modesty, patience and fortitude prevail.
The nomads of the Sahel
As we see every year on our trips through Chad, the Wodaabe are an indomitable people who live for their livestock, remain faithful to their traditions, and have in their blood a love for the freedom offered by their nomadic lifestyle and the open spaces they traverse. The Wodaabe people live in complete harmony with their surroundings—which is admirable in this day and age—and are known for being an extremely hospitable people.
Toward Dourbali and Massenya: A Journey to the Gerewol Festival in Chad
From N’Djamena, we traveled to Dourbali and Massenya in the Chari–Baguirmi region. September and October mark the end of the rainy season and are the time of the Gerewol.
Every year, in the area around Massenya—about 200 kilometers from Chad’s capital and a 10- to 24-hour drive, depending on the year— two large Wodaabe family clans (the Soudousoukai and the Japto) gather to hold a spectacular beauty contest known as Gerewol.
We are lucky, and it is market day in Dourbali, one of the most attractive in the region. The different ethnic groups of the region, Arabs, Kanoumoudji, Alidjam, Weilas, Hontorbe, etc. gather there. We attended a wonderful and colorful show.
After registering at the gendarmerie of Dourbali and presenting the authorizations of the Ministry of Tourism and Interior, we continue our journey through winding tracks, if not, doing it directly cross-country for a few tens of kilometers until we reach the family with the nomadic camps Wodaabe.
Living with the Wodaabe nomads of Chad
We set up our camp in the savannah, in a huge open space covered with bushes and dotted with acacias, with only a few nomad tents next to us. We are told that the rest of the families will be arriving in the next few hours. We passed the time without losing sight of the daily life of the families there.
There are three essential aspects of Bororo life. The first concerns personal matters, the second their livestock, and the third their family and relationships with their clan
Wodaabe women during the Gerewol
Meanwhile, with much curiosity, we observed that the Wodaabe women are unmistakable. They dress in dark fabrics and are distinguished by their facial tattoos, large earrings in the ears, bulky hairstyles, flashy jewelry and usually 2 braids on each side of the face that for them means a magical protection.
And while for the Wodaabe man wealth and status depends on the number of cattle he owns, for the Wodaabe woman it is the number of pots and gourds she has. These pots will always be clearly visible next to the suudu (Wodaabe nomadic style tent or house).
As the hours went by, more families arrived with their herds. On the back of donkeys and zebus: children, women and old people traveled with their belongings. On foot, leading the group, the men.
Once the campsite has been chosen, the women are in charge of clearing the area of weeds. They are also responsible for setting up the sudu. Young women and girls are in charge of fetching water.
For the most beautiful people in the world, being beautiful is an obligation. From childhood they are instructed in the cult of the body, even from the birth of the child all care is aimed at improving its external appearance. As soon as the newborn is washed, the midwife molds the head, trying to give it a spherical shape by means of gentle pressure; the nose and the extremities are molded with equal care.
The Gerewol festival, a spectacle of beauty
The Wodaabe Gerewol festival brings together the three focal points of Fulani life: beauty, livestock, and family. As evening falls, we begin to hear some singing, and a few men start to gather. The rest of the families haven’t arrived yet; they tell us that tomorrow will be a great day of celebration.
Sunrise in the Sahel. While we prepare our breakfasts, the Wodaabe do the same. The first thing is to make a fire to prepare the tea. From early in the morning, the men go about their lives in groups on one side and the women and children on the other, always next to the suudu or tents.
Throughout the morning the men begin to prepare for the Gerewol. With great patience and perfection they make up their faces, sometimes alone and sometimes on each other, but always, always looking in the mirror. I have never seen such a smug village before. If there are two things the Wodaabe love, it is tea and looking in the mirror.
Due to their nomadic status, the Wodaabe have few opportunities to socialize and find a partner. The Gerewol festival is one of the few opportunities for this.
Gerewol dance
The Gerewol is a ceremony where men dance and compete to be the most beautiful and women are judges and can choose their future husband. For these dances the men prepare themselves thoroughly with their best clothes and accessories, painting their faces red (Gerewol) or yellow (Yaake) and highlighting the eyes and lips with black makeup, which makes the white of the teeth and eyes stand out more.
In the dance, the men line up, with the youngest standing at either end. The dances and chants are hypnotic and are repeated for hours on end, sometimes all night long.
Polygamy in the Wodaabe
The Wodaabe practice polygamy and men can have up to four wives. But in these parties the single girls can have an “affair” with one of the men without any kind of commitment afterwards. They say… if a wife had a husband who was not too handsome, she could change husbands at the Gerewol or even just try to get pregnant with a more handsome man. The latter may have been the case in the old days, or perhaps in other regions. But in this particular part Islam is very influential and I would find it very surprising if this were still the case.
Throughout the day the men dance without a break, only stopping to drink tea and eat. In the afternoon the Gerewol festival reaches its climax, the women attend the dances and dance as well. The spectacle is impressive.
But so do people from other ethnic groups or from small sedentary villages in the surrounding area. The party goes on into the night, without a break. They dance around the bonfires and the participants in the Gerewol enter into a trance, under the effects of secret infusions.
Gerewol Festival in Niger
Similarly, at the end of the rainy season in Niger, a large Gerewol festival is held every year.
If you’re curious to learn more, this article discusses the differences between the Gerewol of Chad and the Gerewol of Niger.
Trips to the Gerewol Festival in Chad
Kumakonda is the pioneering agency in Spain that brings this impressive Gerewol Festival in Chad to travelers. We have many years of experience helping groups discover this fascinating tradition, and October is our preferred month to help you experience it. If you’re interested, feel free to check out our upcoming trips or email us at info@kumakonda.com
Autor:
Austerio Alonso
Co-founder of Kumakonda. Passionate of Africa. Specialist in the design, preparation and realization of expeditions in Africa. Content creator.
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