Sierra Leone is one of the least-visited destinations in West Africa, yet it is also one of the most culturally rich. From the rural interior to the Atlantic coast, travelling through this country offers a truly varied experience. Here are what to see in Sierra Leone that we believe you shouldn’t miss.
- Text: Francesca Giustini
- Photographies: Francesca Giustini, Beatriz Moreno and Alicia Ortego
What to see in Sierra Leone: Freetown, the capital with a Krio identity
Freetown, the capital of Sierra Leone, is a vibrant city that embodies many of the country’s social and cultural dynamics.
The city was founded in the late 18th century as a British settlement for freed slaves from the Americas. Over time, it developed into an autonomous centre where different communities intermingled, giving rise to the Krio people and their language.
Today, Freetown is a complex, bustling and fascinating capital, where colonial history, urban culture and local customs coexist on every street corner.
The city can be understood through landmarks such as the Cotton Tree, a historic symbol of the city’s founding.
This legendary tree had reached an age of around 400 years and grown to a considerable size right in the heart of the city. However, in May 2023 it was felled by a violent storm, leaving only the stump at its base. This happened just a month after one of our visits to Freetown.
The site where it once stood remains an emotional landmark for the people of Freetown, and its memory a national symbol of Sierra Leone.
But perhaps the real heart of life in Freetown is the large central market and the streets surrounding it. Every morning, the area buzzes with such intense activity that it is impossible to escape it. The smells of spices and smoked fish, piles of colourful fabrics, and the voices of vendors calling out to one another in Krio and English.
And in a complete change of scene is Kroo Bay, a real slum – a working-class neighbourhood, yet rich in culture and warm hospitality.
We have been welcomed with open arms on several occasions amongst the shanty towns. The contrast between the rubbish dumps right next to the houses and the hospitality of the people makes this neighbourhood one of the most evocative and intense to explore.
Another place is the waterfront, which runs along the city’s beaches and connects the city with the ocean. It does so by creating spaces where the economy, social life and daily routine blend together naturally, albeit with various layers of inequality.
Finally, in Freetown itself, with the right contacts or by keeping an eye on what’s happening on the streets, we can witness fascinating ceremonies and masked processions.
Cultures and ceremonies from the interior of Sierra Leone
Like other countries in the region, Sierra Leone has a rich tapestry of cultures and communities. Each has its own unique character, but they all share similar traditional customs, such as initiation ceremonies and secret societies.
Although we do not know them all, of course, we have seen several examples of these cultures, and we will discuss them below. But first, we should point out that Sierra Leone is known for the strong presence of so-called secret societies.
Secret societies in Sierra Leone are, in fact, institutions that shape education, identity, social roles and relationships with the spiritual world. They also play an important role in politics.
It takes time and careful observation to understand it, but once you start to see it, everything falls into place in a truly remarkable way.
Within these societies, masks play an active role in community life. They serve as vehicles for cultural transmission, but also as means of protection and control that the community holds in the highest regard.
Limba initiation ceremonies: the Gbodokali and the role of the forest
One of the most intense experiences we have had in the north of the country is the Gbodokali male initiation ceremony, practised by the Limba people.
This rite marks the transition to adulthood. Young people, usually aged between 8 and 14, spend several weeks in the forest, cut off from the community.
For the Limba people, the forest is a sacred and regulated space where the social and spiritual transformation of the initiates takes place. The entire community treats it with a reverence that is evident in every gesture and every moment of silence.
At the end of the period of seclusion, the initiates return to the village amid a collective celebration, with music, dancing and the participation of many communities.
The atmosphere is hard to describe: people are singing and clapping, the drums are beating non-stop, and the boys returning from the forest look completely different from when they set off.
During the celebration, families and villages contribute food, gifts and palm wine. The significance of this goes beyond the event itself. It is a gesture that sustains relations between communities throughout the year.
A central symbolic element is the Basanperè mask, which takes the form of a bird. This figure represents the connection between the forest world and the human world, acting as a symbolic guide for initiates during their transition between two states of existence.
We cannot stress this enough: being able to witness such an important and deeply felt moment for the community is a truly powerful experience.
Temne culture, Mende culture
The Temne culture is one of the most important in Sierra Leone.
Right from the start, it is striking to see how everyday life is intertwined with traditional practices: work, family, resource management, healing, spiritual protection and the relationship with nature.
Among the Temne people, the main secret societies are the Soko Society and the Soko Bana, each with specific roles in passing on values and providing spiritual protection for the community.
The Mende culture, on the other hand, is widespread across southern and eastern Sierra Leone, and is also found in Liberia and Guinea. Its secret societies share the structure of those in other regions, but have their own distinctive features. We are referring to the Bondo or Sande Society and the Poro Society, which we discuss below:
Bondo / Sande Society (Mende people): female initiation
The Bondo is an organisation made up of numerous independent local groups, all of which are linked by shared practices.
Traditionally, the Bondo prepare girls for their adult responsibilities through an initiation process that involved a prolonged separation from the community.
The young women were taken to a wooded area near the village, the ‘bush’, where, under the guidance of adult women, they learnt social norms, practical knowledge and skills essential for community life.
Over time, this period has in many cases been reduced to a few weeks, to fit in with the school calendar. However, the symbolic structure of the rite remains: separation, training and return continue to mark a publicly recognised change of status.
The most experienced female figures act as educational leaders and guardians of the system, and it is striking to see the authority they exude in their movements.
The most important mask of the Sande society is the Sowei mask, which in some contexts is associated with Mbundu forms. It is a dark, polished wooden helmet representing a female spirit of the forest and water linked to fertility, harmony and protection.
Seeing it up close is awe-inspiring: the dark, glossy surface and serene features convey a presence that transcends the physical object.
Credits: Beatriz Moreno
Poro society(Mende people): male figure and the Goboi mask
The male counterpart to the Sande is the Poro society.
Its masks appear in ritual contexts to assert male authority, reinforce community norms and maintain the link between the human and spiritual worlds.
Among the masks associated with the Poro is the Goboi, a striking figure linked to forest spirits.
When you see it emerge, accompanied by the deep sound of drums, you understand why these figures command such respect: there is something about their presence that goes beyond mere representation.
Credits: Beatriz Moreno
Falui and Gongoli: performative masks, irony and social regulation
Alongside the institutional masks, there are more dynamic figures such as Falui and Gongoli.
The Falui plays a role in community ceremonies as a mediator between the ritual and the social. Although less solemn, it retains significant symbolic weight and helps to bring the spirits into everyday life.
The Gongoli is one of the most recognisable masks due to its performative and satirical nature. Its elongated and exaggerated shape is designed to generate movement and stage presence.
During ceremonies, it can introduce elements of humour or social criticism, and the audience reacts with laughter, comments and applause, creating a fascinating moment of collective complicity.
Credits: Beatriz Moreno
Bureh Beach and River No. 2: coastal beauty and environmental pressure
Beyond the countryside, Sierra Leone’s coastline offers some of the country’s most spectacular scenery.
Bureh Beach and River No. 2 stand out for their long beaches, tropical vegetation and the open ocean.
Arriving at this little paradise after days of travelling around the country is a striking contrast: the sound of the waves, the salty breeze, the white sand stretching as far as the eye can see. It all shows you that Sierra Leone has a spectacular coastal dimension that very few people know about.
However, this environment is facing increasing environmental degradation that is putting it in serious danger.
Sand extraction for construction and urban development is gradually changing the coastline, disrupting the natural balance and affecting both the landscape and the local communities that depend on it.
It was very sad to see how this landscape has changed over time, when it used to be wild and unspoilt.
Why visit Sierra Leone: a trip off the beaten track
From the initiation ceremonies in the north to the secret societies of the south, from the Temne and Limba communities to the urban complexity of Freetown and the Atlantic beaches, Sierra Leone offers direct access to cultural systems that are still very much alive. It is a reality that can be experienced first-hand, with social structures that are completely different from our own.
A list of what to see in Sierra Leone could be much longer, and in fact, you can read our blog post 12 reasons to visit Sierra Leone. But first and foremost, you need to accept that this trip operates by different rules. It demands patience and an open mind, but it usually rewards you with experiences you’re unlikely to find anywhere else.
