Ilha dos Tigres and Foz do Cunene
A few days ago we travelled to the desert coast of the Namib in southern Angola (March 2024) for one of the most spectacular scenic drives in this part of the African continent: Mocamedes, Baia dos Tigres, Ilha dos Tigres and the forgotten city of Sao Martinho dos Tigres and the route to Foz do Cunene.
*Article updated in November 2024 after our last group trip to Angola in October 2024.
Photo credits: Morgan Painter and Austerio Alonso / Text: Austerio Alonso
São Martinho dos Tigres, the ghost town
São Martinho dos Tigres is a mysterious town that was frozen in time after independence. The old ruined buildings covered in sand in this remote corner of southern Angola tell the fascinating story of the Ilha dos Tigres and the people who lived there.
Ahh, you may wonder why it is called “of the tigers” (dos Tigres), not because there are tigers on these shores, nor perhaps huge wild dogs, but because of the roar of the wind that blows so strongly here. Others say it is because of the colours of the dunes when seen from the sea.
Let’s go back in time
It is said that just before Angola’s independence from Portugal, back in 1973, the then village of São Martinho dos Tigres had 400 houses, inhabited by just over a thousand people. All these people lived from some of the activities related to fishing such as salting, fish drying and fishmeal factories. After independence and the subsequent departure of the Portuguese settlers, all this was forgotten, as the harsh climatic conditions and lack of drinking water made life here unviable.
The ‘Great Bay of Fish’, as the Portuguese and English have known the island for centuries, has one of the largest fishing grounds in the world and is a top destination for fishing enthusiasts.
Perhaps it was for this reason that, around 1860, a group of fishermen from the Portuguese Algarve decided to stay and live on this island, founding São Martinho dos Tigres and later creating an important fishing industry.
Travel to Baia dos Tigres
From Tombua, the last town, a three-hour drive through the desert to Baia dos Tigres awaits us. A spectacular drive through dunes and desert beach to reach one of the most remote and isolated places on the West African coast. We have to drive half of the famous Doodsakker, a treacherous stretch that can only be done at low tide and at full or new moon.
Weather and logistical conditions for getting to Ilha dos Tigres
This expedition to Ilha dos Tigres and Foz do Cunene is difficult to do because of the tides, winds, swells and moons. We will need at least 2 cars for safety, camping and cooking equipment and a boat to navigate from the Namib coast to Ilha dos Tigres, a logistical challenge.
Although it is possible to go from Mocamedes or Tomboua to Ilha dos Tigres and back in two or three days, we recommend continuing the journey to Foz do Cunene and going into the interior of the Iona National Park on a circular route because it is a spectacular trip. We can truly say that it is one of the most attractive trips you can do in Africa from our point of view.
Visiting Ilha dos Tigres, a passion for abandoned places
After taking our boat from the Namib coast to the Ilha dos Tigres in about 40 minutes, we drive through the deserted village with its old colonial buildings already in ruins and many of them covered with sand.
At the southern end of the town, the most prominent building is undoubtedly the Catholic church with the Latin inscription at the entrance “Hic Domus Dei” (House of God). This church was once a regular venue for celebrations and processions. Now destroyed, this church was built by Portuguese settlers with shells and other natural materials found on these shores.
We love abandoned places
An old hospital with Portuguese coats of arms, the administrator’s house, a school and the old salt water distillery are other historical traces that the desert sand has not yet completely covered. Right in the centre, between all these buildings, we can see a large main artery that we sense once also served as an airstrip for aeroplanes.
At the time, the water desalination plant installed in 1922 produced more than 22,000 litres of fresh water daily for the fishermen of the village of San Martinho dos Tigres.
Iona National Park
The Ilha dos Tigres, its spectacular Baia dos Tigres and the Namib Desert coastline are part of the Iona National Park. This is the largest nature reserve in the country, and is a region that holds some of the most fantastic scenery you’ll see on this trip to Angola.
Managed by African Parks, this park has 160 km of coastline along the Atlantic Ocean, from Tombua to Foz de Cunene, and that coastline is a spectacular stretch of dunes and desert that ends abruptly along the Atlantic in many instances.
Wildlife in the Namib Desert and on Iona
On this expedition to Baia dos Tigres and Foz de Cunene you will not only enjoy exceptional scenery but also abundant wildlife if you travel in the right season. In October and November it is possible to see hundreds of sea lions in Baia dos Tigres and Ilha dos Tigres with their numerous pups.
Birds are one of the main attractions of this trip. Thousands and thousands of cormorants, seagulls and flamingos are to be found along the Namib coast on our November trip to Angola. The jackals and gazelles are also constant companions on our journey. In October and November we are likely to see whales and, if we are lucky, perhaps zebras and hyenas.
Foz do Cunene, natural border between Angola and Namibia
The Cunene River and its mouth (Foz do Cunene) mark the international border between Namibia and Angola, and lies between two protected areas, the Iona National Park in Angola and the Skeleton Coast Park in Namibia. The meandering Cunene River winds its way through a grandiose landscape of rocks and dunes making this area an obligatory stop on any trip to Angola.
This wild natural landscape with a sea of dunes in the background invites exploration, both by 4×4 and on foot. Following the Cunene River on foot through the rocks and sands is an activity not to be missed, which is why we will spend two nights on our trips here, along the river, and take some scenic walks.
The banks of the Cunene River hold some secrets. In our touring camp along the Cunene we can enjoy the hot springs, always with caution of course, as downstream, near the mouth of the river, large numbers of crocodiles are concentrated 😉
Travelling to Angola
If you want to discover some of the most fascinating places in southern Angola by travelling through the Namib Desert and visiting its tribes, don’t hesitate to ask us for information and consult our next scheduled departures.
👉🏽 Next expedition to Ilha dos Tigres click here.
