Traveling to Eritrea is not the African North Korea that some say it is.
Text and photography by Morgan Painter Hatch
As soon as I arrived in Eritrea, I had a wonderful feeling: tranquility, stability and a strange sense of well-being. I didn’t quite know what to expect, especially since many people on the Internet label it as “the North Korea of Africa”. But being there in person was completely different from what is told on the Internet. I found it to be a warm, humane place full of everyday energy.
Beautiful Asmara, architecture and relaxed atmosphere
Asmara quickly won me over. The Italian-era architecture and Art Deco style give the city a timeless elegance: old cinemas, elegant balconies, clean avenues and streets that convey a natural style. What I liked most was the lively atmosphere of the city. You are not strolling through a museum, but contemplating a city that lives within its own beauty. And the old coffee shops were one of my favorite parts: the espresso culture, the people lingering, the conversations instead of looking at your cell phone. It made everything seem slower, in the best sense.
Exploring Asmara
Walking becomes a delightful experience in Asmara, on foot I discover some of the historical sites of the city, such as the impressive Asmara Cathedral, the National Museum of Eritrea and the iconic Fiat Tagliero building, which look like works of art in themselves.
Local markets, such as the Mercato Centrale, offer a taste of Eritrean culture with colorful stalls selling spices, textiles and handicrafts. Asmara is also famous for its coffee culture, where you can enjoy traditional Eritrean coffee ceremonies.
With a rich blend of traditions, Asmara invites travelers to experience its unique charm, making it a hidden gem for those looking to explore the roads less traveled in East Africa. Whether you are captivated by its history, architecture or culture, Asmara offers a memorable experience that will leave you with indelible memories.
Massawa, the Pearl of the Red Sea
Then there is Massawa, sun-drenched and coastal, with islands and the crystal clear waters of the Red Sea that honestly don’t seem real. Massawa is known as the “Pearl of the Red Sea”.
But Massawa also has a deeper history. You can tell that this port city has been through a lot. Some buildings still bear the marks of hardship and destruction, which gives the place a different kind of beauty, a beauty that feels deserved. What struck me was how life goes on alongside that history: people working, laughing, gathering, rebuilding. Massawa felt resilient without trying to show it.
Originally an important commercial center, Massawa boasts a mix of Italian colonial structures and traditional Eritrean buildings. Again, walking tours follow one after another to leisurely explore the beautiful old town with its narrow streets, colorful markets and historic monuments.
Massawa’s rich cultural heritage is celebrated through its festivals and local cuisine, which offers a sampling of traditional Eritrean dishes. The diversity of the city’s community reflects a history influenced by diverse cultures, including Arab, Italian and African.
For our next trips in Kumakonda we will try to include the nearby Dahlak archipelago, a group of more than 200 islands, known for their serene beauty and crystal clear waters, perfect for diving, fishing and enjoying unspoiled nature.
Karen, culture and traditions
Keren added another layer, more local, more rooted, and I loved experiencing the traditional markets that rotate throughout the week, with different cities coming alive on different days. It made the trip immersive, as if you were following the natural rhythm of the country rather than chasing the highlights.
Coming soon to Kumakonda, Bilen Tribe Festival in Halibmentel
The Bilen Tribe Festival in Halibmentel is an important cultural celebration for the Bilen people of Eritrea. Halibmentel, located near the town of Keren, is the lively setting for this annual event, which showcases the rich traditions and heritage of the Bilen ethnic group.
During the festival, attendees can enjoy a variety of cultural activities, including traditional music, dance performances, art and craft exhibitions, and local culinary delights. The event promotes unity among Eritrea’s different ethnic groups, while highlighting the unique customs and practices of the Bilen tribe.
The festival is a great opportunity for both community members and visitors to learn more about Bilen culture and participate in celebrations that reflect their identity and pride.
Much more about Eritrea coming soon…
I found Eritrea to be a very interesting, safe and welcoming country. At first, the limitation of the Internet was strange to me, but then it became a gift. I searched more, I looked more, and I felt truly present. Eritrea not only surprised me, it rebooted me.
