Sallah Durbar Festival in Kano, the magnificent celebration in Northern Nigeria

The Sallah Durbar Festival in Kano: An Unforgettable Experience

“Ranka ya Dede! ” (“May you live many years!”) shout the people and the nobility as the Emir passes through the streets of Kano during the Sallah Durbar Festival…

Nearly a week has passed since I returned home and the shouts of the crowd, the sounds of drums, kakakis and algaitas are still echoing in my head. Even in the distance I can still hear the galloping of decorated horses with riders drawing swords at a run.

When intense experiences are lived, it is easy to remember and therefore easy to write. From a quiet room in the centre of Madrid, I look back and immerse myself again in the chaos of the street parades, to walk day and night through the palace labyrinths following the trail of nobles, musicians and magicians.

Let’s start…

10 interesting facts about the Durbar Festival and the city of Kano

Kano Durbar, the great festival of northern Nigeria

If Nigeria is often referred to as the “Giant of Africa” because of its large population and robust economy, the Sallah Durbar Festival in Kano could be nothing less than magnificent.

We took a trip to northern Nigeria to attend this important festival during Eid al-Fitr (the end of Ramadan), also known as the “small” Sallah Durbar—though it’s anything but small.

What is the Sallah Durbar Festival in Nigeria?

The Durbar Festival is also known in northern Nigeria as Hawan Sallah, which means “riding horses during the Muslim holiday of Eid” (Hawan means “to ride a horse,” and Sallah comes from the Arabic word salat, which means “prayer”).

To summarize, we could say that the Durbar Festival in Kano (and in other emirates) is a grand street procession in which hundreds (or thousands) of decked-out horses parade through the city streets alongside the Emir for several days.

These majestic parades also feature rulers, district chiefs, nobles, soldiers, police officers, magicians, acrobats, musicians, and many other participants who represent the most prominent aspects of Hausa society and culture. They all come to pay homage to the Emir.

Origins and History of the Durbar Festival in Nigeria

In the past, the Durbar festival was associated with loyalty in times of war. A procession of decked-out horses, nobles, and soldiers would march before the Emir to demonstrate the readiness and loyalty of their regiments in the face of war or battle.

Today, the Durbar festivals in northern Nigeria remain a rich and colorful event that is typically held to celebrate the major Islamic holidays, Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha.

When and where is the Durbar Festival celebrated in Nigeria?

Every year, two Durbar festivals are held in the major emirates of northern and central Nigeria.

Some of the most notable cities where large Durbar festivals are held include: Kano (the largest and best known), Zaria, Sokoto, Illorin, Bida, Maiduguri, and Dutse.

It is celebrated in conjunction with the Muslim holidays of Eid al-Fitr, marking the end of Ramadan (Small Durbar), and 70 days later , Eid al-Adha, the Feast of the Sacrifice (Big Durbar).

The Kano Durbar, Nigeria’s most spectacular equestrian festival

As we’ve already mentioned, Durbar festivals are held in many cities in northern Nigeria, but in this article we’ll focus on the largest of them all: the Sallah Durbar Festival in Kano, although in recent years we’ve attended festivals in other nearby sultanates, and they’re also very impressive.

We don’t have official figures, but it’s possible that during each Kano Durbar parade , more than half a million people gather in the streets, squares, and esplanades of Kano.

Kano is the largest city in northern Nigeria, with an estimated population of about 5 million.

Durbar Terms and Expressions: Hawan and Other Significant Words

It is important to be familiar with some of the terms and words commonly used during Durbar celebrations. We have already mentioned some of these words, but we would like to compile them in this section to make reading easier.

For example, each of the Durbar Day celebrations begins with the term“Hawan,” such as the Hawan Daushe or the Hawan Nassawara. The word “Hawan” means “to mount/ride” and refers to the physical act of mounting a horse. It was first introduced by Emir Sarkin Kano Muhammadu Rumfa in the 14th century.

Other words we hear all the time during Durbar parades and celebrations are:

The Five Days of the Sallah Durbar Festival in Kano: Parades and Ceremonies

During the five days of the Sallah Durbar Festival in Kano or other emirates in Nigeria, it’s essential to have a good local guide ( and we have the best one), who can keep us informed about the entire schedule of events taking place during the grand Durbar parades. This includes the ceremonies (Wasan) that take place simultaneously and in other towns.

Focusing on the Grand Durbar of Kano, here is its main program:

Hawan Idi, Day One: The Procession Following the Eid Prayer

The first day of Durbar is the same in all the emirates of northern Nigeria and begins early with prayer. On a large esplanade, hundreds of thousands of people gather to perform the communal Eid prayer alongside the Emir and the various governors.

The Emir of Kano, along with hundreds of thousands of others, performs the Eid prayer (marking the end of Ramadan). Once it is over, the first of the spectacular parades begins.

The Emir and his entourage, accompanied by musicians and other participants, make their way from the prayer ground to the royal palace.

The Emir and his entourage, accompanied by musicians and other participants, make their way from the prayer grounds to the royal palace.

After a short but very intense procession,<strong>the first horse races and the Emir’s first speech</strong> take place right at the palace gates<strong>.</strong> Just before the Emir’s arrival at the palace, the guards dressed in red, known as <strong>Yan Bindinga</strong> (dang gun), are tasked with welcoming the Emir of Kano with a volley of gunfire.

Each group participating in the parade takes its assigned place before the Emir arrives last with his splendid entourage of guards and musicians. Next, groups of horsemen gallop across the esplanade of the Great Mosque with their swords drawn, passing by the Emir and stopping to salute him.

Hawan Daushe: Day Two, the Grand Durbar Procession

Each group participating in the parade takes its assigned place before the Emir arrives last with his splendid entourage of guards and musicians. Next, groups of horsemen gallop across the esplanade of the Great Mosque with their swords drawn, passing by the Emir and stopping to salute him.

In our opinion, Hawan Daushe is the best day of the Kano Durbar. It takes place in the afternoon and ends at dusk, which makes for wonderful light.

The Emir would hold a parade lasting about two hours to visit his mother’s palace if she were still alive. Since she is not, the Emir rides to receive the gratitude of those attending the parade. The route to be followed that day is chosen by the Emir himself, and it is longer than the one on the first day.

The Emir and his entourage (including his bodyguards) ride on horseback through a number of neighborhoods where historic families live before returning to the palace through the Kofar Kudu Gate for the Jahi (or Jafi), the horsemen’s greeting.

The Jahi (or Jafi) race is the highlight of the Durbar and the final event on the Hawan Daushe program. Several horsemen from the emirate race at full speed toward the emir and come to an abrupt halt. As they approach him, they wave their swords or flags in the air.

The day ends when the palace guards, in their distinctive red uniforms, line up next to the Jahi and fire several shots into the air, signaling the end of the Hawan Daushe Durbar. A massive celebration that culminates in widespread ecstasy after the gunshots, just as the sun sets.

Hawan Nassarawa: Third Day of Durbar, the Procession to the Government House

It’s time for Hawan Nassarawa: that is, a visit to the Government House to express the Emir’s gratitude. This tradition originated during the colonial era, although it is still practiced today.

It takes place early in the morning, when the Emir travels along the wide avenues of Kano—still relatively empty of people—toward the Government Palace.

As the morning progresses, parade participants and spectators begin to gather at various points along the route. This third day of the Durbar is a great opportunity to take photographs and get a closer look at specific groups participating in the Durbar, such as the Tauris.

On this Hawan Nassarawa holiday, it is possible to tour the interior of the Emir’s palace and other government palaces—an opportunity we did not miss.

In the Emir’s palace, we discovered a labyrinth of passageways and beautiful courtyards where Hausa women from the Kutumbawa and Yan Amada clans play music on instruments made from gourds.

Hawan Dorayi or Hawan Fanisau: Day Five, the Final Ride

If you’ve been paying close attention while reading, you’ll have noticed that we skipped the fourth day of the Sallah Durbar Festival in Kano. We did this on purpose, since the fourth day is a day of rest for the participants.

The fifth day —which is the longest, as it lasts the entire day—is the Hawan Dorayi or Hawan Fanisau: the Emir may decide which of his two daughters to visit at her palace. He may choose to visit his daughter’s palace in Dorayi or in Fanisau. Dorayi is one of the Emir’s palaces built by Sarkin Kano Alhaji Abdullahi Bayero (1920–1953).

<strong>The fifth day</strong> —which is the longest, as it lasts the entire day—is the Hawan Dorayi or Hawan Fanisau: <strong>the Emir may decide which of his two daughters to visit at her palace.</strong> He may choose to visit his daughter’s palace in Dorayi or in Fanisau. Dorayi is one of the Emir’s palaces built by Sarkin Kano Alhaji Abdullahi Bayero (1920–1953).

The Rawanis: The Language of the Turban-Wearers of the Hausa People

Of course, it’s time to talk about turbans—one of the most striking aspects of the Durbar and Hausa culture.

The Rawani (turban in Hausa) are much more than an item of clothing; they are a symbol of prestige and royalty among the Hausa people of northern Nigeria and Niger.

Depending on how the turban protrudes at the top, its style, length, colours or the way it is worn, we can often identify who the wearer is and their social status or role. In some cases, we can also tell which event they are attending.

It is undoubtedly the most eye-catching garment in the majestic Durbar processions, so let’s take a closer look at some of them—specifically, the three main types of Hausa turbans.

Rawani Mai Kunne Biyu, the royal turban with two ears

It is undoubtedly the most eye-catching garment in the majestic Durbar processions, so let’s take a closer look at some of them—specifically, the three main types of Hausa turbans.

They say that this turban with two ears originated during the era of the Fulani kings. The crown symbolizes patience, and the two ears represent the two lambs of Allah.

Rawani Mai Kunne Daya (one-eared turban), a turban worn by the nobility

They say that this turban with two ears originated during the era of the Fulani kings. The crown symbolizes patience, and the two ears represent the two lambs of Allah.

Rawani Dunkufe: The Turban Without Ears

These are the turbans that do not have “ears”, and those who wear them are not members of the royal family or the nobility. For example, the various types of royal guards wear the Rawani Dunkufe. It may also be worn by elders or clergy.

This type of turban can be further subdivided, as the way it is worn or its colours can reveal aspects of the wearer’s identity and social role.

The Colors of Turbans and Their Social Significance

We could further categorize this type of turban, since the way it is worn or its colors can reveal aspects of the wearer’s personality and social roles.

The Yan Damara (royal guards) usually wear a purple or black Rawani Dunkufe . This means they are descendants of slaves.

As one might expect, in a culture as complex as the Hausa, we can also distinguish between different styles and types of turbans, each of which indicates a different social status.

Other Traditional Rawanis of the Durbar

We could keep talking and writing about turbans, since there’s so much to say on the subject, but we’ll simply show you two more interesting and representative examples:

The Rawani “Kasko” turban, which indicates that the person wearing it is a voluntary servant of the nobility. And the red Rawani “Kasko” turbans, which are possibly the most common, worn by the Yan Bindinga (palace guards).

The Emir of Kano’s Royal Guards: Yan Damara and Lifidi

Hundreds and hundreds of royal guards march alongside the Emir at the Sallah Durbar Festival in Kano, and as in all emirates, there are royal guards of many kinds who fulfill many different roles. Without claiming to be exhaustive, here are a few interesting facts.

The Durbar parades continue to be held according to tradition. Therefore, it is customary for each nobleman parading on horseback to be accompanied by his two trusted guards (Yan Damara), one on each side. The one riding on his left is called Sarkin Fada (king of the palace) and is his closest trusted guard. On his right is another Yan Damara named Shamaki, which means “in charge of the horses.” Of course, each noble has many more guards at his service.

In the following image, we see a member of the royal family performing the Jinjina, the customary clenched-fist greeting used at the Durbar, which means “gratitude.” To his right is a trusted Shamaki guard “in charge of the horses.”

The Lifidi: The Emir’s Bodyguards

Of all the types of royal guards, the Lifidi are undoubtedly the ones that attract the most attention, with their impressive uniforms made of ostrich feathers. These are the guards closest to the Emir.

The Music of the Durbar: Traditional Instruments of Hausa Culture

Another very interesting and prominent aspect is the presence of Hausa music and instruments. Let’s talk about some of the most striking ones.

The “Shantun busa” is a traditional Hausa flute with a long history. This very unique instrument can only be played in the presence of the Emir and is made from a gourd. Without a doubt, this is the instrument that attracts the most attention during the Durbar, and I have to say that I had never seen it before.

Other traditional Hausa instruments found in Niger and Nigeria itself include the typical algaitas and kakakis (long trumpets).

Take a trip to Nigeria to experience the Kano Durbar Festival

Would you like to experience the Kano Durbar spectacle firsthand? At Kumakonda, we organize small-group trips to Nigeria to attend the Durbars in the Kano region and explore other parts of the country.

If you’d like to take a trip to Nigeria and visit one of Africa’s most impressive festivals, please don’t hesitate to contact us via email at info@kumakonda.com or through our contact form.

You can also check out our scheduled trips in the “Trips” section of this website to check the dates, prices, and key details before contacting us.